Installing a Flipsky VX3 Pro remote on a Takuma e-foil (with battery display)

Field report – Tested on a Takuma Cruising 2 – With the VX3 Pro I finally have a screen that shows battery voltage.

🎯 Why I made the switch

The Takuma V2 remote quickly frustrated me: limited display, no real battery info, poor readability in full sun.
One day the screen froze about 400 m from shore → a worried paddle back to the beach.
I wanted to see the real voltage of my 12S pack. The Flipsky VX3 Pro (waterproof model available from FPVStoreRC) seemed ideal.

🔍 Problems I had with the Takuma V2

• Unstable connection whenever everything is wet (splashes, rain).
• Average waterproofing → fogging, likely corrosion.
• No voltage info → no visibility on remaining range.
• Poor readability in full sun.
• Support / spare parts hard to find → many riders consider switching to a more standard remote like the VX3 Pro.

🗣️ Other riders’ feedback

I am not alone. Here is what I heard on the forums:

“I did the conversion on my Takuma. The PWM signal is recognised, and with the VX3 Pro I finally get clear voltage info.”
— Rider on foil.zone (“Takuma to Flipsky remote conversion”)

“My Takuma remote stopped connecting. I ended up switching to a VX3 Pro, far more reliable.”
— Discussion “Takuma foil not working” on foil.zone

“With the VX3 Pro it works, but you have to wire the VBAT properly otherwise the telemetry breaks.”
— Takuma → Flipsky conversion, foil.zone

“Nowadays finding a Takuma V2 is a nightmare. Luckily you can order the VX3 Pro from FPVStoreRC and other reliable shops.”
— Summary of several threads on e-surfer & foil.zone

📦 Hardware used

• Flipsky VX3 Pro + receiver.
• 12S Li-ion e-foil battery (≈ 44–58.8 V).
• Two wires (VBAT and GND), heat-shrink tubing, zip ties.
• Safety option: fast 100-250 mA fuse.
• Advanced option: 910 kΩ / 47 kΩ resistive divider + 100 nF capacitor.
• Multimeter + sealing silicone.

⚡ Simple principle

Connect VBAT → battery + and GND → battery −.
A fuse in series on VBAT for safety.
Option: divider + capacitor for a more stable display.

🔧 Wiring diagram

12S battery (≈44-58.8 V)
     + ── 100-250 mA fuse ──► VBAT (VX3 receiver)
     − ───────────────────────► GND (common ground)

  Option: 910 kΩ / 47 kΩ divider → middle tap to VBAT (≈0-5 V)
  Option: 100 nF capacitor between VBAT and GND

🧭 Practical steps

1. Cut the power; work dry.
2. Identify VBAT and GND on the VX3 Pro receiver.
3. Wire battery + → fuse → VBAT; battery − → GND.
4. Insulate with heat-shrink tubing + silicone.
5. Configure the VX3 Pro (12S, alarm around ~42-43 V).
6. Test with a multimeter before going on the water.

🧪 Quick troubleshooting

• No display: check that GND is properly connected.
• Unstable display: add a 100 nF capacitor.
• Nonsense voltage: blown fuse, reversed polarity, or badly wired divider.

🗣️ My feeling after several sessions

With the Flipsky VX3 Pro, I can see much better what is left in the battery. Real peace of mind gained. The trigger is smooth, the screen readable.
In salt water: rinse + dry – it makes a real difference. The fuse saves me from surprises.

✅ What I would do again

• Use a fuse on VBAT
• Seal right from the build
• Add a capacitor to stabilise

🔗 Useful resources

• Flipsky VX3 Pro – FPVStoreRC
• Datasheets / forums (foil.zone, e-surfer)